Portland Bill Lighthouse

Iconic, Historic, with a Touch of Romance – Portland Bill Lighthouse

Portland Bill - Scoop of Dorset

As a local Weymouth girl, I’ve always admired Portland Bill Lighthouse. Our Resort offices were once within striking distance of this iconic landmark, yet until last week I had never climbed to the top.

Over the years I’ve walked around its base, picnicked on the rocks, watched winter storms roll in, dined at the Lobster Pot, and shared countless memories with loved ones while gazing out to sea. My uncle even abseiled down from the top in a tuxedo for charity back in the 90s! But somehow, it had taken me this long to take the official tour and tackle the 155 steps to the top.

The Visitor Centre and Tour

We began in the Visitor Centre, a small but fascinating museum dedicated to the history of UK lighthouses and Portland Bill itself. For those unable to climb the stairs, it’s worth visiting this alone.

Our tour guide, Rob, was friendly, knowledgeable, and clearly passionate about the lighthouse’s history. He also shared insights into the two other lighthouses nearby: the Old Higher Lighthouse (now holiday accommodation) and the Portland Bill Observatory Lighthouse (now a bird observatory and field centre).

Before climbing a single step, you’re greeted by the impressive original lens at the base of the tower. Installed in 1906, it remained in operation until 2019. Rob explained that, were it not for modern technology, it could still be shining today. The modern LED replacement still flashes four times every 20 seconds, just as its predecessor once did. There’s a touch of sadness knowing that lighthouses are no longer manned by a lighthouse keeper, but instead operated remotely from Essex. However, each lighthouse in the UK has a lighthouse attendant (often a retired lighthouse keeper) who is on hand to help ensure things are running smoothly, and to assist with any emergency.

The Climb

The tour is cleverly broken into sections, with a chance to pause halfway up. Small windows along the way offer glimpses of the coastline – perfect for visitors now, but once essential for lighthouse keepers as they moved between floors.

We also learned about the foghorn,  vital for guiding ships in poor visibility. Though we didn’t get to sound it, Rob played us a clip – and it was loud enough to imagine yourself at sea, grateful for its warning.

On the second floor we discovered a clever spy hole, used by keepers to monitor lower floors and to check on the red sector light, which marks the Shambles Sandbank, without them having to climb up and down the stairs.

Finally, the steepest stretch: the last steps to the lantern room. And what a reward! The view is breathtaking – dramatic cliffs, rolling sea, and a true sense of standing inside history. Perhaps it was the etched glass windows, the gleaming modern lens, or just the romance of it all, but being at the top felt magical.

A Legacy of Safety at Sea

Before Portland Bill Lighthouse was built, countless shipwrecks occurred off this treacherous stretch of coast. Known as The Race, the waters here can whip up powerful swells and crosscurrents, dangerous even for experienced sailors. From the land it’s beautiful to watch, but from sea it could be deadly. There’s no doubt that since its construction, the lighthouse has saved countless lives. Quite amazing when you think this iconic Lighthouse even saw the Titanic sail past on its first sea trials from Belfast to Southampton and back!

Why You Should Visit

There’s a certain fascination with lighthouses – so many books, films, and dramas have captured their mystery and the dedication of the keepers who once lived within. Visiting Portland Bill brings that history to life in a way that feels both educational and moving.

The lighthouse is open year-round (check their website for opening times and tours). And don’t miss a trip to the Lobster Pot Café next door – their cream teas are the perfect post-climb treat.

Oh, and one last thing – you even get a badge at the end of your tour. A small but charming souvenir of an unforgettable experience.